Living like a Porteña woman; a collection of my adventures and experiences teaching in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
October 6, 2012
The Children of Beccar
Whether I am ready to confront some adoption-related issues or not, I am taking the plunge. I have just started volunteering at a children's home in Beccar, a middle class area north of Buenos Aires. No one uses the term "orphanage", only "hogar" (meaning "home"). Call it a euphemism if you'd like, but I think the distinction is so important. There are ten lovely children, between the ages of 6 and 13, four girls and six boys. Two of the boys lost their respective parents to HIV and are also HIV positive. There is a young girl that moved into the home recently whose uncle sexually abused her. It is clear that she is struggling socially, but the home can't afford to have her see a psychiatrist. The other children are healthy and come from relatively non-violent backgrounds (i.e. they have parents in jail, or with drug problems, or in poverty). Within moments of walking into the house, I had three kids wrapping themselves around me. They were instantly all intrigued by my shaved hair style and nose ring! Liliana (she runs the home) thinks it is good for the children to see "difference" in reference to how I dress as well as my cultural background. The children also don't speak any English, which is a little challenging at times, but it's a great opportunity for me to learn from them. They are all so sweet and affectionate. I left the home feeling a confused mix of happiness and despair. I knew that this wouldn't be easy for me emotionally and mentally, but it all hit me rather suddenly on the train home. I opened up to Jimena, my volunteer coordinator, about it and she offered some comfort. I kept alternating between thoughts of myself as an infant in the orphanage and thoughts of the children that I had just met. One thing that never changes when you grow older is the innate desire to be loved and cared for. Children and adults share such vulnerability always, but tend to respond differently when the desire is recognized. Somewhere along the way adults tend to create more distance among one another out of self-preservation (whether it is wise or not is irrelevant), but children tend to be open and accepting of anyone that wants to care for them. Maybe I am generalizing too much... but kids seem to want to tell you about their families, hobbies, friends, pets, interests, etc. within the first 15 minutes of meeting. Then they will have numerous questions to ask you about your personal life. Children are also constantly looking for contact comfort, which I think is another desire that we never lose with age, but for some reason the simple act of holding hands when you're an adult has exaggerated (in my opinion) implicit meanings of intimacy. The kids I met in Beccar were sitting in my lap and grabbing onto my hands within 5 minutes of being there. What happens to such comfortability and trust when we get older?
One Day At A Time
So I've made a few changes in my schedule here in Buenos Aires. I decided to start taking an intensive advanced Spanish course from 10 am - 1 pm Monday through Friday at the InterSpanish school, which is located in the same building as the Road2Argentina office (my volunteer organization). My class is so much fun... an awesome English/Australian girl named Natalie is the only other student in the class, and our teacher, Mago, is the sweetest. She is 24 and so charming. The three of us talk about anything and everything, all in Spanish of course. When we aren't doing grammar/reading/writing exercises we gossip and talk about our love lives and other girly things. Three solid hours of conversing in Spanish together is so helpful and fun. The three of us are getting close very quickly and my Spanish has definitely improved already, so I am super happy that I decided to take the class. Mago feels like a peer and a friend, not just our teacher, which is refreshing! She wants me and Natalie to come out with her soon to meet her friends and family. It's exciting to be building relationships with people from all over!!
As for the volunteer work in Pablo Nogues, I decided to put that on hold for the time being. The commute turned out to be a good hour and a half each way, and the area made me more uncomfortable than I expected. In general the families of Pablo Nogues are working class, so it is not considered one of the shantytowns, but there were a few things that made me dubious about whether I would even be able to get used the area. For example, the number of "street dogs"roaming the streets totally freaked me out. They are dying in the street, and it seems like no one cares enough to try to do anything about it.
Dale Dale Bocaaaaaa
The whole lot of us (about 15 Australian kids and I) went to our first Argentine football game last Sunday. What an experience. To say that Argentine football fans are passionate is a total understatement. Much to my relief our group stood in what seemed to be the calmest section of La Bombonera, the home stadium of the Boca Juniors. Still jam packed, complete with spiked barriers dividing each section as well as barbed wire. The cheering began before the game and didn't stop till the very end. It wasn't long before I found myself fighting my way closer to the field, joining the chanting, and shouting Spanish obscenities. The crowd's enthusiasm was certainly contagious, even for someone like myself who doesn't follow Argentine football. The chants were infectious and pretty easy to pick up. I would love to see a Boca game against River Plate (their arch rivals), but tickets are quite expensive and not easy to come by. Also, those games can be fatal to fans (seriously), so I think I'm content with just watching from the comfort of my own home!
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